Latakia – Linda Ali

“Umm Khaled” and her family choose popular tourist beaches like al-Karnak Beach for several reasons, primarily financial. Another reason is the freedom to swim without dress code restrictions. Large resorts enforce specific conditions for swimming attire, whether it is burkini or bikini.

The Aleppo native, residing with her family in Latakia, prefers to swim in her loose abaya without any restrictions, which she can do freely at popular beaches.

The fifty-something-year-old woman rented two tables from one of the investors at al-Karnak public beach for 75,000 Syrian pounds each (5 US dollars). Her family brought all their necessities, including food and drink, to avoid buying from nearby shops, where prices are exorbitant.

Even a simple trip now costs half a million, said Umm Khaled, noting that the price of gasoline accounts for slightly less than half the total bill. She lives in the Mashahir area and came to the beach with her family in a small car, “squeezed” into the back trunk after laying down some sponge mattresses.

With rising temperatures, especially this July and the upcoming August, popular beaches in Latakia, such as al-Karnak and Nagabat, are crowded with people during holidays and weekends. Investors often raise the table rental to 75,000 Syrian pounds on holidays and occasions, while it drops to 50,000 pounds on regular days, with no services provided except for tables and chairs, plus a dirty and smelly bathroom.

It is notable this year to see Iraqi tourists at these beaches, while in the past, Arab tourists typically chose the larger resorts.

Rationing sea visits

Nader (54 years), a vegetable vendor in Qenins market, used to seize every opportunity to take his family on trips in the summer. He recalls easily moving between Slanfeh, Kasab, Mashqita, and Kargali years ago. However, the hike in prices, especially gasoline, has now prevented this.

The fifty-something-year-old man is left with one option: nearby public beaches like al-Karnak, Nagabat and Dirasat. Despite being no more than eight kilometers from his residence on Al-Thawra Street, taxi fare exceeds 100,000 Syrian pounds.

Therefore, the man takes his family and their essentials by minibus, which is a significant hassle, he described. Additionally, using minibuses requires them to return before sunset, as minibuses rarely run after 8 PM.

Sometimes, Nader sneaks away on his own motorcycle for a quick swim and then returns, as his small motorcycle cannot accommodate all five family members (three children and a wife).

Nader said that these difficulties have led him to ration family visits to the beach, barely managing two or three trips throughout the summer to swim and return before public buses stop operating.

The flip side of the city

Away from the popular beaches that most Latakia residents cannot visit, many massive resorts are scattered in Latakia city, with prices beyond the wildest dreams of employees and ordinary people. A single night’s cost in these resorts is no less than a million Syrian pounds.

In general, Syrians live in a deteriorating economic and living reality, with the minimum government salaries in regime-controlled areas amounting to around 279,000 Syrian pounds ($18 US dollars).

In Latakia’s new Lawadessia resort, our correspondent posed as a tourist wanting to book two days. Customer service informed her that the rental for a single chalet is 2.5 million Syrian pounds and accommodates four people. There are small cottages costing 700,000 pounds per day. The entrance fee to the resort for swimming is 50,000 pounds for adults and 40,000 pounds for small children.

The customer service team requested our correspondent to book at least a week in advance as all rooms are fully booked.

Prices are similarly high in the Meridien resort, where the entrance fee is 50,000 pounds, and in Blue Beach, where it’s 60,000 pounds. The room booking costs no less than 700,000 pounds and can exceed two million pounds, depending on the room’s location, size, and proximity to the sea.

Popular mountain tourism

Slanfeh, a city in Latakia’s countryside, is a prominent destination for countryside lovers, known for its cool summer climate, making it a favorite for many.

Hiba (32 years) planned with her friends to rent a house in mid-July, but the cost thwarted their plans.

Hiba, an employee in a charitable organization in Latakia, said that the cost of a single night ranges between 600,000 and 1.1 million pounds on holidays, dropping to between 350,000 and 750,000 pounds on regular days.

She mentioned that renting a house costs 600,000 pounds daily, but it is unlivable, lacking a gas cylinder, being dirty, and having old equipment and furniture.

“We are three friends, and the only acceptable house had a rent of 800,000 pounds, meaning each of us would pay about 275,000 pounds per day without food or drink, so we decided to cancel the idea entirely,” she continued.

Fadi Nizam, the director of tourism in Latakia, said in statements to the local Al-Watan newspaper that tourism during Eid al-Adha holiday (mid-June) saw good turnout, with tourists from Arab countries like Iraq, Jordan, and Lebanon.

He added that resort occupancy rates reached 100% in all chalets and resorts and remained fully booked throughout the Eid holiday.