Enab Baladi – Hussam al-Mahmoud
Following the fall of Bashar al-Assad’s regime at the end of last year, Syrians found themselves in a political experience being tested for the first time in decades, allowing them to speak about politics openly and loudly. Previously, such conversations had to be whispered within trusted circles due to the grip of tyranny and the policy of silencing voices that overshadowed the country for 53 years, during which Hafez al-Assad ruled, followed by his son Bashar, who came to power without elections or a political program endorsed by the public.
The atmosphere in Syria since December 8, 2024, is different from what it was before; festive decorations and vibrant life have returned to the city and streets. People have begun to breathe freely, and it has become possible to discuss the future of the country, with a desired variation in viewpoints, as everyone ultimately aspires to elevate the interests of a nation that has been fragmented by military barriers and whose image has been distorted by the regime’s recruitment of foreign forces to fight against the people who have called for his departure since 2011.
Among the places that have opened their doors for political dialogues and democratic expression of thoughts, opinions, fears, and political anxieties is al-Rawda café in the Syrian capital. This establishment has resumed a functional aspect that had been dormant before. Despite attracting Syria’s intellectual elite, including journalists, writers, actors, directors, and artists engaged in various creative activities, the dominant atmosphere in the café before the revolution was merely a gathering around a table of intellectuals drinking tea and coffee while discussing culture, creative anxieties, and artistic critique. However, the café was not devoid of political activity, even with the eyes of informers monitoring its patrons and recording their breaths.
Al-Rawda café was founded in 1937 on the ruins of an old cinema and has been a place where Syrian and Arab poets frequently gathered, including Mamdouh Adwan, Saadi Youssef, and Muthaffar al-Nawab.
Among the political figures and journalists, influential personalities like Michel Kilo, Fouad Balat, and Ahmad Barqawi regularly attended the café, and it witnessed some discussions during the Damascus Spring at the beginning of 2000.
After the fall of Assad’s regime, al-Rawda Café revived its activity, albeit with different features, benefiting from its cultural heritage and enjoying a wide space of freedom reminiscent of the golden age Syria experienced during the independence era and before, regarding freedoms and the practice of political activity and vigorous debates aimed at serving the nation.
Al-Rawda Café is considered one of the most prominent historical and prestigious cafes in the Syrian capital, maintaining its traditional character in line with the spirit of the old city, located in the al-Salihiya area, near markets and shops.
The café, established decades ago, has transformed over time into a symbol of cultural and social life with minimal effort. Its decor is inspired by traditional Eastern styles, simple and comfortable, with wooden furniture, artistic works, and historical photographs adorning the walls.
Celebratory atmospheres
Mohammad, a young Syrian who returned to Syria after the fall of the Assad regime and has visited the café several times, spoke to Enab Baladi about the celebratory atmosphere covering the place, creating occasions when they do not exist, with endless receptions for artists and activists, culminating in celebrations like the one for the late actor Khaled Taja, who transitioned from being an actor to a symbol of resistance, opposing the regime’s violent policies against the people, leading to accusations against the former regime’s security branches for his death.
The young man expressed that he met new cultural personalities in the café, along with media activists, rights advocates, and humanitarian workers, even military personnel. He noted that the attraction of some cafes in the capital after the political liberation of the country was somewhat coincidental, as people gathered in al-Rawda café immediately after al-Assad’s fall, held celebrations, and videos of these celebrations spread across social media, attracting more people each time.
“Some people visit the café to get to know each other and to meet public figures,” the young man added, noting that the café opens its activities in the morning, with people spending long hours there, which elevates the ambience from a simple café to a meeting space where different opinions clash, and their holders argue and stand firm in their viewpoints. Those who want an Islamic state in the future Syria are present, alongside those advocating for a secular state; no topic is off-limits for discussion, be it in culture or politics.
The Syrian flag, a law prohibiting the glorification of the former regime, popular songs, and many more topics are discussed in the café in a strikingly friendly atmosphere, transcending the social barriers between people meeting for the first time, as they quickly dive into issues that trouble them or seek answers to pressing questions, with diverse intellects converging in one space.
Discussing prices, which are higher than those in other popular cafes, reflects a hint of elitism; the intellectual elite gather in the same place to discuss among themselves, while other cafes are left for the public with negligible intellectual activities, even though there should be a convergence of the elite with the general public, allowing these discussions and seminars to resonate among them.
Hopes for tangible results
Hasna, a young woman residing in Damascus, explained to Enab Baladi that this phenomenon is somewhat limited to al-Rawda café, which attracts former activists of the revolution or returnees who came back to Syria after al-Assad’s departure.
She noted that influential figures deliver speeches in the café, expressing her hope for something genuine to emerge and discussing how to overcome the current phase, as mere conversation may not yield tangible results. She emphasized that signs of improvement and beauty are essential after decades of stifling freedom of thought and opinion. However, these celebrations do not provide anything for the families of the disappeared or those detained in the previous regime’s prisons, as she is one of them.
A venue for raising awareness
Historically, cafés have played a significant role in political and social life, serving as open spaces for discussion and the exchange of ideas in many cultures and communities. They have been nurturing environments for politicians and thinkers, contributing to raising political awareness and discussing issues such as colonialism and independence, as well as radical transformations.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, cafes in France and Britain were centers for intellectual and political revolutions. Before the French Revolution, these establishments served as meeting points to form revolutionary consciousness among writers and intellectuals through the exchange of opinions. This phenomenon eventually reached the Arab world in the 20th century when cafes transformed into secret meeting places for coordinating political activities by activists.
Cafés also played a vital role in shaping public opinion and exchanging views, especially before modern media emerged. They became sources for circulating political news, narratives, and stories, closely associated with enlightenment movements in Europe and the Arab world, promoting freedom, equality, and enhancing freedom of expression through open collective discussions. This positioned them as targets for repressive security apparatuses, making their activities and decline indicators of the political pulse of any given country.
Café Riche in Cairo and al-Zahawi in Baghdad stand as examples of how cafes turned into social institutions attempting to shape the political and cultural history of their countries through the discussions of their patrons. This is something Syrians are rediscovering today after having felt the freedom they paid the price for through 14 years of repression at the hands of al-Assad and his allies.